The process is documented well at the Chicagoland MG club website "MGB Differential Clunk Removal" so I will not repeat it here.
Symptoms in my car were:
- Loud clunking at highway speed for about 30 seconds that went away.
- Chirping rear tire when turning hard right from a stop
- Play in the rear axle with the parking brake on.
Rear Axle Parts Diagram for Late Tubed Axle at Moss Motors
At a minimum you will need:
- Two Oil seals for rear axle : #120-700 (#90 diagram)
- One gasket for the "rear pumpkin" or make your own: #296-210 (#61 diag.)
- Two thrust washers for the differential pinion #267-130 (#67 in diag.) - Copper washers
- Two thrust washers for the differential pinion #267-140 (#65 in diag.) - Phenol washers
- One Pinion Pin Peg 267-125 (#70 in diag). Say that 3 times fast! Its a good idea to replace this pin.
- Hylomar for the bearing cap
- SilGlide for the axle seals
Not mentioned in the article
- Pulling one axle may be difficult. I had to place the hub back on with the nut and hit sharply from the back (from middle of car toward exterior) to dislodge bearing cap and pull the axle.
- Placing the pinion gears back in is an art. Once you get it, you "get it" in how to do it.
- I placed the first pinion gear the bottom and geared it in with the differential gears on the axle, then rotated the "pinion cage" so that gear was at the top.
- Rotate a wheel so the gear goes toward the front of the car and is almost out of meshing with the differential gears.
- Feed in the bottom pinion gear at about a 45 degree angle so it starts to mesh with the diff gears.
- Now rotate the wheel so the bottom gear goes in toward the pinion pin whole (back of car to front) and the other pinion gear comes from the front of the car toward the back.
- Check for alignment with the pinion hole. Back out, adjust the starting point (Step 2) and repeat until everything lines up.
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