The really bad news
You can't really see the cracks in this pictures so I marked the locations on the head with a marker.


The questionable hobby of restoration and maintenance of old British Sportscars (MG, Triumph)


Cylinders 2,3 are similar to 4.
And now for something rather different! Cylinder 1 has carbon but has a light grey appearance. This may indicate a gasket failure resutling in coolant "steam cleaning" the top of the piston.
The location indicated by the green arrow was full of "grit" that reminded me of a hard water scale or buildup. More evidence of a failed gasket.
Here are the valves. These look okay but only a pressure test will tell definitively.
Now its off to the machine shop for pressure testing, magnafluxing and a valve job, assuming all goes well and no cracks are found in the head. Could it be that easy?
No problem - whip off the head, change the gasket and we're good to go, right? Not so fast. Late model heads are prone to cracking in this region. Max Fulton at Flying Circus English Cars also told me that late model blocks can sag in this area, or the block can pull up around the studs. So what could it be? Its an old British car - how could it be anything but a simple gasket failure?
I drained the cooling system, unhooked the hoses and took off the valve cover and rockers. Here we are after backing off the head nuts in a spiral pattern as described in the shop manual. Check out the stud with the nut still on. It unscrewed easily directly from the block. Interesting....
When pulling the pushrods angle them to the side so the tappets will stay aligned. Its important to remember the order so I pushed them through a box and labeled each. Wow - look at how professional I am.
With the pushrods out I unhooked the manifold and pulled it back away from the head.
At this point you can lift the head away from the block. That is what the manual says. Reality was more complicated. The head was stuck to the block at the stud indicated by the green arrow. I could rock it up and down on each end but it is stuck in the middle! Blue arrow shows the location of the weepage and red arrow the stud the screwed easily out of the block.
I repeated applications of my new favourite penetrating oil (hmm, that sounds dirty) Kroil www.kanolabs.com over a period of a few days to the top of the stud and where the head meets the block. I also applied some light heat from a propane torch and some gentle tapping with a hammer on the top of the stud. After a few days it came loose! What suprises will be found underneath?
This is the connection at the hatch where I had to drill out the bolt that faced inward. It was crimped and there was no good way to get any purchase on it.
The bolt was removed from the connection to the car body and the two washers reused with the new ball connector.
When fastening the ball to the attachment point on the body, move the ball as far forward toward the front of the car as possible.
With the ball in place for the body you can use the strut to guage distance, but more importantly use Rick's instructions that state the new attachment point should be 12 inches from the original point (measuring down toward the bottom of the hatch). See two pics down for the measure point. Use the new bracket to mark the attachment point and drill two 3mm holes (yes I know I mixing metric and imperial here...). Attach with the screws provided. Repeat for the other side.
Ta-da! Now enjoy the gas-strut action as you raise and lower the hatch. Place your head under the raised hatch and notice how it no longer falls onto your cranium unexpectedly! Right nice.
Nice cars and even nicer people. I can't wait to get my cars back on the road after seeing so many great cars in such an active and inviting club.
Reality was more complicated. I looked at several options. The GT has no brakes and may not be considered a "runner," in which case it would cost the value of the car to move it. The cost of hiring a transport for two cars was substantial and I needed delivery flexibility because we had not yet closed on our new house.
Now don't get any silly ideas - I'm not suggesting anything like this:
The movers noticed what I was doing and offered the use of their loading ramps which turned out to be ideal for the job. One ramp was placed on either side and I drove the LE up and into the box of the truck from street level. The LE is lowered but there was just enough clearance. This is the part where I really wish I had some photos. Driving the MG up and into the box was like taking a ride at an amusement park. Once the car was in I blocked the wheels, secured the car in place and disconnected the battery.
This allowed me to pull the GT up onto the trailer all by myself. Later I used it to slowly back the GT off the trailer. Very useful and only $17 at the local store.
A couple of days later I offloaded both cars. I was able to back the GT off the trailer using the hand winch, then unhook the trailer and back up the truck into the ditch in our yard. This brought the deck of the truck almost level with the lawn. I constructed two six foot ramps using my 2"x12"s, braced them well with concrete blocks, and backed the LE off the truck with ease. Home at last.
A pneumatic hole puncher was a great help in prepping the inner membrane for the welds to the castle rail. Holes for welding were punched approximately every inch, then the section was welded to the castle rail (not shown)
Adjusting the rocker took a long time. This is where you start to see how well (or badly) you have lined things up. Getting the gaps correct around the door is critical. If you mess this up you might as well quit right there. So I took my time and found that things are a little off at the front but overall are ok. For a first timer I am happy with the fit.
The front wing is on temporarily to assist with fitment only. It was then removed and the rocker plug welded into place.