The really bad news
You can't really see the cracks in this pictures so I marked the locations on the head with a marker.


The questionable hobby of restoration and maintenance of old British Sportscars (MG, Triumph)
No problem - whip off the head, change the gasket and we're good to go, right? Not so fast. Late model heads are prone to cracking in this region. Max Fulton at Flying Circus English Cars also told me that late model blocks can sag in this area, or the block can pull up around the studs. So what could it be? Its an old British car - how could it be anything but a simple gasket failure?
I drained the cooling system, unhooked the hoses and took off the valve cover and rockers. Here we are after backing off the head nuts in a spiral pattern as described in the shop manual. Check out the stud with the nut still on. It unscrewed easily directly from the block. Interesting....
When pulling the pushrods angle them to the side so the tappets will stay aligned. Its important to remember the order so I pushed them through a box and labeled each. Wow - look at how professional I am.
With the pushrods out I unhooked the manifold and pulled it back away from the head.
At this point you can lift the head away from the block. That is what the manual says. Reality was more complicated. The head was stuck to the block at the stud indicated by the green arrow. I could rock it up and down on each end but it is stuck in the middle! Blue arrow shows the location of the weepage and red arrow the stud the screwed easily out of the block.
I repeated applications of my new favourite penetrating oil (hmm, that sounds dirty) Kroil www.kanolabs.com over a period of a few days to the top of the stud and where the head meets the block. I also applied some light heat from a propane torch and some gentle tapping with a hammer on the top of the stud. After a few days it came loose! What suprises will be found underneath?